[NA] 17mm Lower Brake Caliper Bolt? [Archive] (2024)

peacefrog_0521

29th April 2017, 01:27

So I decided this would be the weekend that I would replace at least my front rotors & pads. I got the top 14mm caliper bolt (slide pin) with some doing, and expected the lower bolt to come out as easily. Turns out to be a 17mm, and extremely difficult, even with PB and an impact wrench. Is this normal? I have seen no reference to this in videos, the Haynes manual, or the Garage. It's not LH Thread, correct?

I haven't jacked up the other side to compare but will do so tomorrow.

3MiataFamily

29th April 2017, 05:03

Not normal

Sounds like the pin is rusted and will take some creativity to get it out

gtxhawaii

29th April 2017, 07:06

pacomutt

29th April 2017, 09:23

flylow7f39

29th April 2017, 10:27

I haven't tried it - yet. But a press release from CRC claims Knock'er Loose® outperforms Kano® AeroKroil® in penetrating & water displacement tests. Online opinions suggest oit even smells same/similar to Kroil.

CRC 03027 Knock'Er Loose Plus Penetrating Solvent, (Net Weight:11.5 oz.) 20oz Aerosol (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013IZS1O) $9.44 at amazon.

CRC Knock'er Loose Penetrating Solvent, 13 oz Aerosol Can, Reddish (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Knocker-Penetrating-Solvent-Aerosol/dp/B000LEVE00) $7.83 at amazon.

http://news.thomasnet.com/companystory/dare-to-compare--crc-knock-er-loose-to-the-competition-608038

DARE TO COMPARE ... CRC® Knock'er Loose® to the Competition!

Press release date: January 2, 2012
Laboratory testing shows Knock'er Loose® outperforms Kano® AeroKroil® in penetrating & water displacement tests.

Knock'er Loose® is an industrial strength, low viscosity lubricant and penetrant designed to quickly loosen and free seized, bound or frozen fasteners. It quickly permeates rust, scale, gum, grease and corrosion with a low surface tension formula that creeps into cracks, seams, threads and joints with greater efficiency than the competition. Knock'er Loose® eases the disassembly of plant machinery, tools and equipment for routine maintenance and emergency repairs. Its super penetrating formula outperforms the competition in penetration, speed and corrosion resistance as verified by laboratory testing.

Extreme Penetrating Action. Specially formulated to dissolve rust, varnish, gum and corrosion.
Eases the disassembly of machinery, tools & equipment. Loosens rusted and corroded nuts, bolts, coupling, fittings, hinges and frozen components.
Outperforms the Competition. As verified by laboratory testing.
Corrosion Inhibiting. Lubricating residue prevents corrosion.
360 Degree Valve. Product can be sprayed from any position - even upside down.
NSF H2 Registered for use in meat and poultry plants.
VOC Compliant

About CRC Industries
CRC Industries, Inc. is a chemical specialties manufacturer for maintenance and repair professionals and do-it-yourselfers in the automotive, marine, heavy trucking, electrical, industrial and hardware markets. CRC trademarked brands include: CRC®, K&W®, Sta-Lube®, and Marykate®.

SOURCE
CRC Industries, Inc.

2002tiitomx5

29th April 2017, 11:36

The secret is not letting the caliper bolts and pins get to that state by servicing them every year with the proper anti-seize grease. I have starting using SuperLube synthetic grease for the caliper pins and brake pad slide points

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-8-Oz-Tube-Silicone-Lubricating-Brake-Grease-97008/202932701

peacefrog_0521

29th April 2017, 18:00

Unbolt the frame the caliper mounts on, at the hub. Work on the bolt at a bench vise, where you have better access and room to move tools.

50/50 ATF/Acetone seems the best at loosening rusted up threads, store in sealed metal containers once you make up some.
Heat does even better. Try not to fry the hydraulic piston seal.

A larger problem is that most people put PB, or some other penetrant on a part, and immediately apply a wrench. In these days on instant gratification, it still takes time for any penetrant to reach the rusted threads. The best stuff used to be CRC 5-56, but I guess the Feds don't allow that stuff to be made any longer.

Thanks, I remember you both mentioned this mixture in previous threads. I tried the ATF-Acetone mix and left it for at least 30 minutes or more while I had lunch but it didn't seem to penetrate.
Was going to try heat next but couldn't find my torch.

I am in a bit of a time crunch as I just got back from a week in Mexico yesterday, and leave next Saturday for Germany for two weeks. And the weather is lousy here this week so I have no desire to drive it, which makes for a good working window.

PB Blaster is the worst by test of commercial lubricating penetrants. ANYthing else is better. sadly PB has by far the biggest market visibility. But in America, that's all the usually counts. Ad budget rules product development.

Kinda like the Sirius Cybernetics Corporation. Or Microsoft. Or nowadays Apple. PB Blaster will be first up against the wall when the revolution comes. :D

Not normal

Sounds like the pin is rusted and will take some creativity to get it out

Kinda yes, kinda no. You were right the first time, not normal, but not rusted. I had to buy another electric impact gun (mine wouldn't reverse anymore) and a better 6-pt 17mm socket but eventually got it off. Clean threads and slider.

Here's a pic of the bolts (before I cleaned them); one is clearly larger than the other:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2882/33963122770_11a5bbbe67_c.jpg[/url]

They cleaned up very well and show no signs of corrosion or damage. I suspect that in a past life the caliper (passenger-side) was replaced with a 3rd-party aftermarket one.

The secret is not letting the caliper bolts and pins get to that state by servicing them every year with the proper anti-seize grease. I have starting using SuperLube synthetic grease for the caliper pins and brake pad slide points

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-8-Oz-Tube-Silicone-Lubricating-Brake-Grease-97008/202932701

I used to have a tube of that stuff but can't find it now. Will probably buy another at HF as it's a decent alternative to the unicorn sem*n (a.k.a Shin-Etsu). I also have some Permatex green stuff that I used on my friend's F***us a few months ago when I did his brakes (which was about the easiest brake job I've ever done).

P.S. - here's the PS-Side pads as well. Hard to see in this photo (and I already pitched them and not going after them) but they are considerably worn down.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4185/34346970425_96dbe9dc37_c.jpg

Now struggling with the caliper mounting bolts - at least those are still 14mm but not coming out. Put on some more penetrant and and done for the day as my hands are cramping up badly, to where they lock up. Never had it that bad before. (And might hinder other forms of "instant gratification.")

Thanks,
-Raj

pacomutt

29th April 2017, 20:56

gtxhawaii

30th April 2017, 03:31

flylow7f39

30th April 2017, 08:33

Shin-Etzu is for glass, rubber, and such, NOT for brakes. Same with Syl-Glide. High temp specification Brake Grease, as labeled, is the correct lube for slider pins. A little is good, more is not better, a lot is worse. Hydrolocking from too much grease behind the pin means less travel for the pin and caliper.

I have all 3 below on hand, I've been using the 3M stuff on the slider pins.

3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste - 8 oz (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNEH5O)
"Also used as a general purpose lubricant for brakes (metal to rubber applications. -Great for O-rings and weatherstripping"
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/889069O/3mtm-silicone-paste-clear-08946-8-oz.pdf
3M™ Silicone Paste 08946
Service Temperature - °F -40°F to +400°F

Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD49GTS)
https://www.shinetsusilicone-global.com/catalog/pdf/grease_e.pdf
G30 (Same thing as Genuine Honda 08798-9013)
Use temperature range °C G30 –60 to +180 (-86°F to +356°F)

SG-4 Sil-Glyde Lube Compound 4 oz Tube (https://smile.amazon.com/American-Grease-Stick-Sil-Glyde-Compound/dp/B000KXJLXY)
http://agscompany.com/product/sil-glyde-silicone-lubricant-tube-4-oz/#specifications
Sil-Glyde® Silicone Lubricant, Tube, 4 oz
Working Temp. Range-20 to 400

The Basics of Disc Brake Service -EricTheCarGuy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKpmBvfVYZg

cKpmBvfVYZg

peacefrog_0521

30th April 2017, 12:19

Are you saying the bolt sizes are incorrect? They ARE two different sizes....

If they are two different sizes by stock design, that's news to me. Nothing I've seen in the Garage, in Haynes, or in other threads I've searched indicated that they are two different sizes, nor has my past experience on different OTM vehicles. So I just found it odd, and rather unnecessary. Maybe it was a change on the NA8 that isn't there on NA6?

flylow7f39

30th April 2017, 13:09

If they are two different sizes by stock design, that's news to me. Nothing I've seen in the Garage, in Haynes, or in other threads I've searched indicated that they are two different sizes, nor has my past experience on different OTM vehicles. So I just found it odd, and rather unnecessary. Maybe it was a change on the NA8 that isn't there on NA6?

2 different size of sliders for the front calipers for '90 - '05 Miatas. Same for NA6, NA8 and NB.

https://did-it-myself.com/changing-brakes-in-a-miata/
‘97 Miata.
"Unlike the rear, the front calipers have two screw-in slider pins. Using a 17mm wrench on the lower one and a 14mm on the upper, remove both slider pins entirely."

rockauto.com states slider pins are same (2 different sizes) for ’90 – ’05.

https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=265313&stc=1&d=1493571892

Mazda dealer Jim Ellis webstore http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=305014&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14360&modelYear=1992&ukey_category=20261 states slider pins are same (2 different sizes) for ’90 – ’05.

peacefrog_0521

30th April 2017, 13:13

2 different size of sliders for the front calipers from '90 - '05 Miatas.

https://did-it-myself.com/changing-brakes-in-a-miata/
‘97 Miata.
Unlike the rear, the front calipers have two screw-in slider pins. Using a 17mm wrench on the lower one and a 14mm on the upper, remove both slider pins entirely.

rockauto.com states slider pins are same (2 different sizes) for ’90 – ’05.

https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=265313&stc=1&d=1493571892

Mazda dealer Jim Ellis webstore http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=305014&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14360&modelYear=1992&ukey_category=20261 states slider pins are same (2 different sizes) for ’90 – ’05.

Thank you. That was the answer I was originally looking for in this thread.
I didn't look up parts stores as I have no intention of replacing them.
And I didn't see your write-up from August as I was still dealing with my TB/WP change last fall.

Still, as a rhetorical question, why in the hell would Mazda do this?

flylow7f39

30th April 2017, 13:27

Still, as a rhetorical question, why in the hell would Mazda do this?

IMHO, Miatas were designed with a some consideration of weight, every little bit adds up. Why use a larger bolt where it is not needed? 1/4 ounce here, a 1/4 ounce there adds up.

Just my thoughts.

peacefrog_0521

30th April 2017, 13:31

I've always had to use the 1/2" breaker bar on a new-to-me Miata's brake fasteners.

As did I, eventually, at least for the caliper bracket bolts, and then only after heating for at least several minutes. And with a 6-point socket. HF corded electric impact gun is worthless for this job. The caliper bolts themselves came out without heating and with an impact and 6-point socket.

Saying a product is as good or better than Kroil still leaves ATF/Acetone above. Penetrants only work where they Can PENETRATE. Flange head bolts and screws with tight fits on flat metal aren't going to let anything inside. Nuts with exposed threading are the targets for penetrants.

That's what I kept wondering is how will it get in there? Kind of a chicken-and-egg problem, isn't it? I don't think anything got in there until after I heated it, and then the cooling created a capillary action which allowed some of it to penetrate. I remember a VW mechanic had to do this on my Fox's O2 sensor many years ago; heat it and then apply penetrating oil successively.

Here's a photo of the caliper bracket bolts, after heating and breaker-bar removal. If I assume the red-colored area is from ATF, then it appears that only some got in, and only for one of them.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2861/34205436172_6ca3a6917a_b.jpg

Shin-Etzu is for glass, rubber, and such, NOT for brakes. Same with Syl-Glide. High temp specification Brake Grease, as labeled, is the correct lube for slider pins. A little is good, more is not better, a lot is worse. Hydrolocking from too much grease behind the pin means less travel for the pin and caliper.

I'm using my already-opened packet of Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Lubricant. It's green, it's silicone-based, and says effective to 400 deg F. I used it on my friend's Focus (or Fu**us as I call it) a few months ago and works fine. Direction include applying to pins.

https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-4/

pacomutt

30th April 2017, 15:40

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170430/29379ef0eb73b8c6f3602da4fcb429d4.jpg

Front and rear pins for an NA6 Miata. Bonus question: Who can tell me the thread size and pitch for the rear pins?

peacefrog_0521

30th April 2017, 21:17

I have all 3 below on hand, I've been using the 3M stuff on the slider pins.

SG-4 Sil-Glyde Lube Compound 4 oz Tube (https://smile.amazon.com/American-Grease-Stick-Sil-Glyde-Compound/dp/B000KXJLXY)
http://agscompany.com/product/sil-glyde-silicone-lubricant-tube-4-oz/#specifications
Sil-Glyde® Silicone Lubricant, Tube, 4 oz
Working Temp. Range-20 to 400

Just an aside, I found the small counter packets of Sil-Glyde at AutoZone for $1.49 each, which on a per-ounce basis is more, but is a better option for just getting only what you need, when you need it, just enough for a single purpose.

gtxhawaii

30th April 2017, 22:19

For no real reason, other than it's what I have, and, it's purposed for the work: CRC synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease -30F to 600ºF.
The grease is specifically cautioned Against for internal caliper piston seals, nor wheel stud/nut threading. When they think it's important enough to put on the product container . . .

I didn't know the Syl-Glide has a somewhat useful temp range. My tube of Shin Etsu has zero product properties, and isn't listed on the Shin Etsu co. web page for use, properties or safety issues. (Is said to be grease G-3W-O-M, on the Amazon page)
The site general coverage of silicone products trumpets their safety. HOWEVER, all the print on my box and tube are given to safety warnings: eye contact calls for 15 minutes continuous water eye rinse, Any skin contact calls for clean cloth grease removal, then soap and water till 'clean'. Meaning to me, Don't use, if you don't have barrier gloves!
The Honda Shin Etsu is recommended widely by Honda and others for rubber lube in doors, windows and suspensions (Noisy bump stops, called out in one Honda publication). I agree with a comment on the Amazon Shin Etsu page, it's too thick and sticky for slider pins, use a dedicated brake grease.

Todd Barney

30th April 2017, 22:39

Just an aside, I found the small counter packets of Sil-Glyde at AutoZone for $1.49 each, which on a per-ounce basis is more, but is a better option for just getting only what you need, when you need it, just enough for a single purpose.

That's very smart. Because the last two full tubes of the stuff I've had, I've stepped on them with the cap off. :mad: Lose a lot more than $1.49 worth that way.
http://kokofeed.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/toothpaste-hp.jpg

flylow7f39

1st May 2017, 03:18

For no real reason, other than it's what I have, and, it's purposed for the work: CRC synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease -30F to 600ºF.
The grease is specifically cautioned Against for internal caliper piston seals, nor wheel stud/nut threading. When they think it's important enough to put on the product container . . .

I have used the Syl-Glide on the sliders in the past, still looked fine after a few thousand miles (under 5k IIRC) on a daily driver Miata after 3 years when I next lubed them. I haven't had issues with the 3M stuff also rated at 400º.

How hot can the slider pins/boots get? Do they get over 400ºF? :dunno:

Maybe the stuff CRC claims is good for 3000ºF would be a better choice? But at least some of the ceramic stuff like Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU) "excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65 degrees Fahrenheit to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit" has been said by reviewers to get hard and eat/swell some rubber bits from some manufacturers.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/know-temperature-when-metal-glows-red/
It doesn't really matter what the emitter is...stainless steel, cast iron, tungsten in your light bulb, the temps are about the same for a given color. Generally accepted colors/temps are:

ºC ----- ºF ---- Color

400 -- 752 -- Red heat, visible in the dark
474 -- 885 -- Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 -- 975 -- Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 -- 1077 - Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 -- 1292 - Dark red
800 -- 1472 - Dull cherry-red
900 -- 1652 - Cherry-red
1000 - 1832 - Bright cherry-red
1100 - 2012 - Orange-red

C= Centigrade
F= Farenheit

Flash point of the 3M stuff is 570°F, Service Temperature - °F -40°F to +400°F.

Sil-Glyde info I've seen doesn't indicate the flash point but states it "Performs from -20 deg F to +400 deg F".

Flash point of the CRC stuff is lower than their working temps which is confusing to me.

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
"Buna-N Temperature Range: -35ºF to 250ºF"
"Viton® Temperature Range: -15ºF to 400ºF"
"Silicone Temperature Range: -65ºF to 450ºF"
"EPDM Temperature Range: -60ºF to 250ºF"
"Teflon® Temperature Range: -250ºF to 450ºF"

CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease - 5 oz. (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05361-Silaramic-System-Grease/dp/B0091KCG0W) at amazon.

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/silaramic-174-brake-system-grease-5-wt-oz-05361.html
"Silaramic® Brake System Grease, 5 Wt Oz SKU05361

DESCRIPTION:
A synthetic, dry-film, ceramic lubricant formulated to reduce brake noise and vibrations by dampening all brake vibrating frequencies. Will not run off or wash out. Works in extreme temp ranges from -50 to 3000°F. Protects against uneven pad wear.

Applications:
All brake systems and brake components, including calipers, bushings, holes, pins, inserts, anchors, bolts, calipers and boots

"Flash point (F) 550°F"

"Working Temp (F) -50 to 3000°F"

CRC 5351 Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease, 2.5 Wt Oz
(https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brake-Caliper-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000M8IF1Q) at amazon.

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/brake-caliper-synthetic-grease-2-5-wt-oz-05351.html
"Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease, 2.5 Wt Oz SKU05351

DESCRIPTION:
A specially developed synthetic grease with a high-tech formula for use in disc & drum brake systems. High temperature grease is plastic & rubber safe. Use on metal to metal contact points and sliding surfaces. Resists moisture and will not washout.

Applications:
Backing plates, brake pad contact points, caliper o-rings, calipers, disc brake pads, drum brake systems, grommets, parking brake areas of lubrication, pivot points, self adjusters"

"Flash point (F) 450°F"

"Working Temp (F) -30 to 600°F"

http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/5351.pdf
"Avoid temperatures exceeding the flash point"

flylow7f39

1st May 2017, 04:20

CRC synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease -30F to 600ºF.

Good to 600°F but avoid for temps above 450°F. :dunno:

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/brake-caliper-synthetic-grease-2-5-wt-oz-05351.html
"Flash point (F) 450°F"
"Working Temp (F) -30 to 600°F"

http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/5351.pdf
"Avoid temperatures exceeding the flash point"

How hot can the slider pins/boots get? Do they get over 400ºF? :dunno:

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
"Buna-N Temperature Range: -35ºF to 250ºF"
"Viton® Temperature Range: -15ºF to 400ºF"
"Silicone Temperature Range: -65ºF to 450ºF"
"EPDM Temperature Range: -60ºF to 250ºF"
"Teflon® Temperature Range: -250ºF to 450ºF"

3M stuff.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/889069O/3mtm-silicone-paste-clear-08946-8-oz.pdf
"Service Temperature - °F -40°F to +400°F"
"Flash Point 570°F"

"Brakes:
General purpose lubricant for metal-to-rubber
applications, caliper guide pins, outer
caliper seals, outer wheel cylinder seals."

The grease is specifically cautioned Against for internal caliper piston seals
Only lubes for internal caliper seals, wheel cylinders and master cylinders that I know of that won't contaminate brake fluid is brake assembly lube and, of course, brake fluid. I also wouldn't use anything other than brake fluid or assembly lube in clutch cylinders.

flylow7f39

1st May 2017, 05:12

That's very smart. Because the last two full tubes of the stuff I've had, I've stepped on them with the cap off. :mad: Lose a lot more than $1.49 worth that way.

When I was lubing my window guides my knee managed to squeeze out most of the Shin-Etsu from the tube that I laid on the floor. Proof that a tube of the Shin-Etsu stuff doesn't always last near as long as some claim.

Are you going to make that same mistake 3 times?

In my case it was a lesson learned, now I pay a lot more attention as to where I lay down a tube of anything.

peacefrog_0521

1st May 2017, 18:47

When I was lubing my window guides my knee managed to squeeze out most of the Shin-Etsu from the tube that I laid on the floor. Proof that a tube of the Shin-Etsu stuff doesn't always last near as long as some claim.
:rofl:

Are you going to make that same mistake 3 times?

Probably not, because I'm more likely to lose the tube after the first use. :(

In my case it was a lesson learned, now I pay a lot more attention as to where I lay down a tube of anything.

gtxhawaii

1st May 2017, 23:33

The point of a 3000ºF grease in a system with rubber and brake fluid that 'fails' in low triple digit F temps escapes me. A misprint?? As most refinery fractional distillation towers are at far lower temps, I'm suspicious.
"Flash Point" would be in the open, exposed to air, max temp might be chemical stability in enclosed locations. As brakes fail when the hydraulic fluid boils, moot?

My tube of Shin Etzu blew out at the back, tools shifting in a tool box, I assume. It's all in a zip lock bag now.
Dealer prices seem to go #20 a tube, or higher, Amazon was $14 yesterday. IIRC, I paid ~$15 for the CRC at Walmart, 12oz (Current price on the net), I don't expect to use up the container this life.

flylow7f39

2nd May 2017, 03:49

Not just the CRC stuff that is supposedly rated at 3000° has a low triple digit ° flash point.

Maybe the ceramic ingredient is good to 3000° but the rest of the ingredients fail at lower temps? :dunno: It is difficult at times for me to discern between alternate facts and reality - especially when tech docs seem to disagree with advertised ratings.

Any Chemical Engineers out there?

The Permatex purple stuff, that has been said to has been said by reviewers to get hard and eat/swell some rubber bits from some manufacturers.
Permatex® Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/
"Effective from -50°F to 3000°F (-46°C to 1649°C),"
https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/sds/01_USA-English/20354.pdf
"Flash point > 260 °C / > 500 °F"

All in all, I suspect that the silicone type lubes that are recommended for slider lube rated at 400ºF are most likely all that is needed - at least for daily drivers. Hopefully those who track inspect the sliders before track events.

Seems Anti-Seize is rated with the same type of confusing specs.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWA2WQ
"Never Seez Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize Compound is formulated to protect up to 2400 degrees F"
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/msds/NSPureNicSpe.pdf
"Flash Point 475°F (246.1 °C)"

Strawdawg

2nd May 2017, 23:37

flylow7f39

3rd May 2017, 06:24

Thinking those high thousands of degree ratings probably are just for "When employed in mechanical components not exposed to air,". Maybe Permatex & CRC can claim 3000° is because residual lube ingredients still provide at least some lubrication properties after reaching the flash point.

IMHO since the purple Permatex® Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant reportedly gets hard after time and isn't compatible with all brands of boots indicates not all dedicated products are necessarily the best to use. Other dedicated products from Permatex seem to be fine, in this case buying the manufacturer's "best" isn't necessarily the best solution.

Both SylGlyde and the 3M 08946 Silicone Paste has been fine on the sliders after a year or three on my daily driver.

NOT for slider pins! Jet Lube MP-50 isn't compatible with rubber bits.
http://www.jetlube.com/pdf/MP-50-tds.pdf
MP-50 has an application range of -300°F (-185°C) to 750°F (400°C). When employed in mechanical components not exposed to air, good lubrication results can be anticipated up to 2000°F (1090°C). Molybdenum Disulfide is nearly inert in operating conditions up to 600°F (315°C). If the grease vehicle should be squeezed out, disrupting normal lubrication, the moly disulfide re-mains to protect working surfaces. It assists in boundary lubrication by filling microscopic voids”

~

"Flash Point (ASTM D-92) >430°F (221°C)